JSPCA HAMSTER FACT SHEET

History and Biology

Hamsters belong to the rodent family so their front teeth (the incisors) are long and curved and designed for gnawing.  The Syrian hamster, Mesocricetus auratus,  (also referred to as the ‘golden’ hamster) was not discovered until 1839 when just one animal was found.  Years later, in 1930, the species came to light again when a female with twelve babies was found in a burrow on Mount Aleppo in Syria.  They were taken to a university in Jerusalem for breeding and it is from this one group that all pet golden hamsters are descended. 

The Syrian hamsters are known as ‘golden’ hamsters, as this was the original coat colour.  Today different variations exist (such as black, grey and cinnamon), as well as different coat types (short-haired, long-haired or Rex).  Syrian hamsters are the most common pet hamsters. 

The Russian dwarf hamster (Phodopus sungorus sungorus) is often housed in pairs.  Other species of dwarf hamster include the Chinese or striped hamster (Cricetulus griseus).  The Chinese hamster has a longer tail than the other dwarf hamsters and it is also more aggressive to fellow cagemates and so is better housed alone.

An adult golden hamster can weigh between three and five ounces (80-140grams), with the female usually being larger than the male.  They are inclined to fight, especially the females, so golden hamsters should be caged singly.  A male hamster is usually less aggressive than a female hamster.

Hamsters are characterised by large cheek pouches, short tails and thick bodies.  The cheek pouches are used to transport and store food and to conceal a newly born litter when danger is present.  Hamster incisors are open rooted and grow continuously.  The colour of normal hamster teeth is yellow-orange.

They are nocturnal, (which means that they are active at night and sleep during the day), solitary animals and will hibernate if room temperatures remain below 10C.

The average life expectancy is one and a half to two years for Syrian and Russian hamsters, but two and a half to three years for Chinese hamsters.

Housing

Hamsters have strong teeth designed for gnawing, so need a strong, resistant metal cage or converted aquarium, of a minimum size 60cm x 30cm x 30cm.  Conventional wire with plastic base cages that have several floors, or solid plastic caging with plastic tunnels can also be used to house hamsters.  Hamsters are active nest builders and a bedding area should be provided well supplied with woodchips or shredded paper.  Hamsters are burrowing animals by nature and like a deep layer of bedding.  A nest box will also provide an area for the animal to retreat into and it should be cleaned regularly.  Sawdust makes suitable flooring as it absorbs moisture, with shredded tissue for bedding – not cotton wool.  Avoid using pine or cedar shavings because the oils they contain can cause health problems.  The cage should be placed somewhere warm and dry, with a constant temperature, away from direct sunlight and draughts.

In the wild hamsters will travel long distances at night and therefore require plenty of exercise in captivity.  Put in some toys and a solid exercise wheel.  The wheel must have a solid floor rather than rungs as these can cause injuries to the feet and tail.  A small branch for the hamster to nibble will prevent the teeth becoming overgrown.  Branches, such as willow or hazel, that have not been painted or treated with pesticides or other chemicals are suitable.  Hamsters are poor climbers, however, and care should be taken that they cannot fall. 

The entire cage will require cleaning at least once or twice weekly, but any damp areas should be attended to daily.  Remove any old food more often, as necessary.

Diet

Pet hamsters are usually fed a commercial hamster mix, once a day, in the evening, which can be supplemented with fruit, vegetables and nuts.  They may like some carrot and apple, but do not give citrus fruits, such as oranges.  Fresh water should be available at all times and provided in a water bottle with sipper tube.

Hamsters hoard food, therefore it is important to ensure that any stale food is removed regularly, as this may prove harmful if eaten.

Handling and Behaviour

Golden hamsters and Chinese hamsters should be kept on their own, otherwise they fight.  To stop them getting bored, handle them often and keep them in a cage that contains lots of interesting things.  Dwarf Russian hamsters are usually kept in a small group of siblings, but they will fight newcomers.

Hamsters must be handled with extreme care.  If startled, hamsters will exhibit threatening behaviour by rolling on their backs and vocalising, and they may bite.  However, if handled frequently and gently, hamsters will soon become accustomed to it and will not bite.  Take care when handling, as even a small drop can be fatal to a hamster.  Initially, let the hamster climb onto your hand and let it become accustomed to sitting on your hand.  Over time, it will become used to being handled and a hamster that is tame will not struggle and will allow you to stroke it gently.  When it is tame, it may be picked up by gently placing the hand right around the body.  Avoid any sudden movements which may frighten it and do not to allow it to fall. 

Common Diseases and Ailments

During cold weather, or in very cold rooms, hamsters may fall into a coma, similar to the hibernation sleep, sometimes appearing as if they are dead.  If transferred very gently to a warm place, they may wake, although half an hour or longer may elapse before normal functions return.  Do not try to revive them by any other means and contact your veterinary surgery immediately.

Skin – Skin problems can be caused by parasites, such as mites.  A hamster with mites may have hair loss and dry scaly skin.  Hamsters can also have skin tumours which can appear as lumps on the skin and may be associated with hair loss and dry flaky skin.  They should be checked by a veterinary surgeon.

Wounds – These are usually caused by fighting.  Do not keep hamsters together. 

“Wet tail” – “Wet tail” is a bacterial infection that can cause extreme diarrhoea.  It is considered the most common disease in hamsters and it can sometimes be fatal.  Stress, damp cages, spoiled food, a dietary change or infectious agents can all cause enteritis (or diarrhoea) in hamsters.  If your hamster is lethargic, has a hunched back, ruffled coat, a wet bottom and tail, loss of appetite and diarrhoea, contact your veterinary surgery immediately.  This is a serious condition that must be spotted early if the hamster is to have a chance at survival.

Respiratory infections – hamsters seem more resistant to infectious respiratory disease compared to other rodents.  Common signs of respiratory problems are breathing difficulties, nasal or ocular discharges, sneezing and coughing.  If you think that your hamster may have a respiratory infection, please contact your veterinary surgery.

Dental problems – By providing branches for the hamster to gnaw, this will help to keep the teeth from becoming overgrown.

Abscesses – These can occur in the cheek pouches.  Look for signs of poor appetite and dribbling.  Abscesses should be treated by your veterinary surgeon. 

JSPCA working to

“prevent cruelty, promote knowledge, provide for aged, sick, lost and unwanted animals.”

 

Jersey Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (Inc.)

Founded 1868 – Incorporated 1936

89 St Saviour’s Road, St Helier, Jersey JE2 4GJ         

Tel: 01534 724331          Fax: 01534 871797

E-mail: info@jspca.org.je          Website: www.jspca.org.je

 

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