A GUIDE TO ENCOURAGING WILDLIFE INTO YOUR GARDEN

Why make a garden for wildlife?

There are many good reasons:

In urban environments and also the countryside, wildlife and natural habitats are coming under threat and suffering increased pressure, such as from building work, loss of old woodland areas and some methods of modern farming.  For example, wild flowers are becoming rare in some areas, mainly due to destruction of their natural habitat and the disappearance of the natural wildflower meadows.  The loss of these wildflower meadows also results in the loss of habitats for many other wildlife species, like butterflies and moths and skylarks, for example.

Hence gardens are becoming increasingly important for wildlife, offering wildlife refuge from their natural habitats that may be disappearing or becoming eroded, invaded or polluted.  Every garden, regardless of its size (from window box to very large garden) or location, can be a wildlife haven and every gardener can make a difference in helping wildlife to survive in an increasingly hostile world.

The majority of gardens, however large or small, have areas that are sunny or perhaps damp and areas where there is exposed soil or places to hide in (for example shrubs and plants).  All living creatures require specific environmental conditions in which they thrive.  For example, water dwelling creatures can be divided into those that prefer to live in shallow water and those that prefer to live in deep water and some may prefer to live in sunny water and some may prefer to live in shady water areas.  Therefore, the larger the diversity of garden habitat provided, the more it will appeal to the different individual needs of many different wildlife species. 

Ideal wildlife habitats need to offer food, water and shelter for the different wildlife species.  Therefore, the best wildlife gardens are those that offer and provide a wide range of natural foods, shelter and a source of water.  Wildlife species also need to find a mate, breed, and raise a new generation. 

Naturally, there is no ideal garden which can provide and accommodate for all of the needs of the many different wildlife species of plants, animals and birds.  It is also important to remember that other habitats, flora and fauna, which may or may not be hospitable to wildlife, surround your garden.  For example, if there are many cats in the neighbourhood, be aware of the cat’s predatory instincts before encouraging wildlife into your garden.

Also, many gardens have multi functions, with an area possibly being required for relaxation, for children to play in, or for growing exotic plants or vegetables.  Hence the whole garden area need not be managed exclusively for wildlife, but rather a “wildlife” area could be designed and incorporated within your garden.

Making a garden for wildlife:

Remember, some species of wild animals and birds will move into and through gardens, in passing, throughout the year; some animals and birds will appear in gardens in search of food in winter and then disappear in spring when they return to woodlands and other habitats to breed:

o      Wild animals such as hedgehogs may disappear from our garden in winter when they begin hibernation.

To attract wildlife a garden must offer water, food and shelter: 

Food:  It is possible to attract birds to the smallest of gardens by putting out appropriate wild bird food, such as wild bird seed mixtures.  Berry-bearing shrubs will also attract birds.  Insects, particularly bees, hoverflies and butterflies, can be attracted to your garden by planting bushes and flowering plants from which they can extract nectar and pollen. 

Shelter:  Shelter in the form of nest boxes will attract birds, but birds will only nest in the boxes if there is sufficient food available: the availability of small insects is important as even the seed eating birds will feed their young insects.  Many insects and other invertebrates require shelter when they are not active, such as leaf litter, logs and stones.  Compost heaps, as well as being a positive way of re-using waste, are also an important place where invertebrates will live and breed.  A compost heap may also provide hibernation places for hedgehogs, grass snakes and toads.

Water:  Water is an important feature of a wildlife garden and can be provided in the form of a pond, which will attract frogs, toads, newts and aquatic insects and will provide birds and mammals with somewhere to drink and bathe.

     

Providing potential breeding sites for wild creatures is also important; a safe, quiet breeding site is needed in a wildlife garden.  Native plants (ranging from trees and shrubs to weeds) and decaying leaf litter will provide suitable breeding habitats for many small wild creatures and hedgerows also offer an important wildlife breeding area.  During the breeding season, try to minimise the disturbance of hedgerows, where birds may nest, and of compost heaps, which provide refuge to a host of wildlife ranging from hedgehogs and grass snakes to earthworms and centipedes.

Native Plants: 

Plants are very important, as they are the beginning of the food chain.  Many of the plant eaters, such as caterpillars, are very specialised in their dietary requirements: caterpillars of the small tortoiseshell butterfly only eat young nettle leaves.  Native plants, such as trees, shrubs and wildflowers, often provide for specific independent plant eating invertebrates, so by growing a variety of native plants, this will help to attract a larger range of insects and hence a larger range of birds and wild animals which may feed on the insects.

Dead organic material is also important as food for wildlife.  So, if the lawn is covered with fallen leaves, rake them up and place them under a hedge or in a corner, rather than removing them as rubbish.  Hedgehogs will curl up and happily hibernate in piles of old leaves.

Insects:

Insects are an important and essential part of any wildlife garden, as they are needed for pollinating flowers, breaking down decaying plant and animal matter and providing a food source for other animals.  Therefore, the ideal wildlife garden is one that belongs to the gardener who does not use pesticides.

Insects often prefer warm, sheltered areas.  Shelter can be offered in a wildlife garden in the form of hedges, bushes, walls and fences with climbing plants on them.  A sheltered, sunny spot is perfect for butterflies to spread their wings, bask in the sun and absorb the warmth. A protected south-facing bank of wild honeysuckle, bramble and nettles will be very attractive to several of the butterfly species, as well as Hawkmoths.

Trees, preferably of indigenous (native) species provide ideal habitats for many insects, as well as birds and small fruit-bearing trees, such as hawthorns, are especially useful.  Old-fashioned cottage garden annual plants are ideal, as well as wild flowers, in attracting insects.  It is also important to have plenty of places that are left undisturbed, for example log piles, pieces of rotting wood, stones and rocks, areas of rough grass, undisturbed leaf litter and compost heaps.  These undisturbed areas will offer insects and other invertebrates food and shelter and somewhere to breed.  An undisturbed stack of wood is also ideal for hibernating butterflies and moths and will be a winter haven for queen bumble bees and Ladybirds.  Ladybirds are another insect that hibernates and may even choose to hibernate in sheds, outhouses, lofts or come into the house. 

A garden pond is also helpful, as many invertebrates spend some of their lives in water.  If your garden has a healthy invertebrate population, it will be attractive to wild birds, reptiles and amphibians and mammals that feed on them.

Each individual species of insect needs specific plants on which to lay their eggs so that the caterpillars, when they hatch, have the right food to eat.  For example, plants such as clover, cabbage, dog violet, nasturtium, thistles, ivy, as well as various grasses and stinging nettles are good caterpillar foods.  If possible and practical, try to include a sheltered, but sunny patch of stinging nettles in your wildlife garden, as it will be visited by several colourful butterflies at egg-laying time, such as the Red Admiral, Peacock, Coma and small Tortoiseshell.  Nettles are also a good food providing plant for many other insects, including hoverflies and several moth species, and birds enjoy eating their seeds.  Adult butterflies and moths feed on nectar, but it is not their only food.  Red Admirals, for example, enjoy rotting windfall fruit and sap.  Examples of nectar rich plants for butterflies and moths include brambles, buddleia, clover, crab apple, “forget me not”, honeysuckle, lavender, marigold, primrose, ragwort, rosemary, Michaelmas daisy, sweet William and the thistle. 

The presence of insects in the garden can be beneficial to the gardener, for example:

 

Birds:

In towns and cities there may be a shortage of the right type of food to support the wild bird population and in the more rural areas the loss of hedgerows can restrict the amount of natural food available.  Therefore it is possible to help the wild bird population by supplementing their normal diet by feeding them, especially in the winter months, when the supply of natural food is hardest to come by.

Although winter-feeding benefits most birds, food shortages can occur at any time of the year.  Therefore, by feeding year round, the wild birds may have a better chance of surviving the periods of food shortage, whenever they may occur. Through spring to autumn, birds are raising their young and often smaller quantities of food will be used.

Autumn and winter bird feeding:

Bird feeding is often most productive from October through to April.  Birds require high energy (high fat) foods during the cold winter weather because they will need to maintain their body reserves to survive the cold frosty nights.  In fact, in order to survive through the winter months, small birds such as blue tits must eat approximately one quarter of their body weight in food each day.  Try to offer bird feed twice daily (especially in severe weather) early in the morning and in the evening during the winter and autumn months, as this is when, in particular, wild garden birds benefit from an energy ‘boost’.  Remember to fill your winter bird feeders every day and only use good quality foods. Always adjust the quantity given to the demand and do not allow uneaten foods to accumulate around the feeders.  Try to stick to a feeding routine once it has been established and remember to also ensure access to water on a regular basis.

Spring and summer bird feeding:

Birds can be fed all year round, but they do have seasonal dietary needs so only certain foods should be fed at this time of year and good hygiene is very important.  Parents raising chicks seek protein rich foods, so live foods such as mealworms (if appropriate for the bird species) are particularly important during the spring and early summer.  During the summer months and especially whilst birds are moulting, they also require high protein foods.    Black sunflower seeds, pinhead oatmeal, soaked sultanas, raisins and currants, mealworms, waxworms, mixes for insectivorous birds, good seed mixtures (without loose peanuts) and summer seed mixture can all be used.  Soft apples and pears cut in half, bananas and grapes are also useful foods.  Avoid using peanuts, fat, dry hard foods and bread at this time, since these foods can be harmful if brought to nestlings by causing the young chicks to choke.  If feeding peanuts in spring and summer, only do so in suitable steel mesh feeders that will not allow large pieces of peanuts to be removed.

Bird Food Quality:

Food quality can vary greatly.  Spoiled food can harbour bacteria and moulds, which can seriously harm garden birds and can attract pests to your garden.  Therefore, it is very important to purchase foods from reputable suppliers and to ensure that foods are stored properly in a clean, dry environment, inaccessible to rodents and pests.  Try to place feeders in locations where they, and hence the food, are less likely to become contaminated with bird droppings. 

Common diseases of garden birds are spread by contamination of food with the droppings or saliva of infected birds.  The risk can increase when many birds feed at the same place every day for long periods of time.  Therefore, to help minimise the risks:

Wild birds, like all living creatures, need access to a supply of fresh water at all times.   Fresh water should be provided in a shallow container that will enable birds to drink and bathe without the risk of drowning.  Seed eaters, such as finches, receive little moisture from their food and hence have a particular requirement for water.  Access to water is important all year round and as for the bird feeder containers, all dishes should be kept clean. 

In addition to drinking, birds need water to bathe in, so as to help them preen their feathers and keep the feathers in good condition.  Birds will bathe in any shallow patches of open water.  When bathing, garden birds only splash in the water and do not soak their plumage.  They then preen and rub oil into their feathers from a specialised gland.  During the winter, the requirement for good feather function is important, not only for proper flight function, but also for the warmth retaining properties of feathers. 

A traditional birdbath is ideal or a birdbath can be made using a shallow container such as a seed tray buried in the lawn.  However, whatever is used, make sure that it has a sloping edge or pebbles in it so that small birds can easily use it and to prevent other animals, such as hedgehogs, falling into the water and drowning.  Place your birdbath where birds can see it, but away from cover that could offer hiding places for predators, such as cats.  A shady corner is useful as the water will dry out if the bath is placed in direct sunlight.  Fill the birdbath with clean, fresh water and remember to keep it regularly topped up.  If the bath freezes in winter, remember to check that there is still a source of unfrozen water for the birds, but do not use salt to achieve this.

By attracting wild birds into your garden, it can have a beneficial effect for the organic gardener as the birds may also start to search for other food sources in your garden, seeking out gardener’s foes such as greenfly and snails.  Also, by feeding wild birds, it will help combat the huge loss for many wild bird species of their natural countryside habitat; the loss of habitat has forced many birds to search out nature reserves, areas where there are surviving hedgerows and gardens that are wildlife friendly.

Bird feeding is also an excellent teaching tool as not only can children be encouraged to learn to positively identify the different species of birds with the help of a field guide and by watching and observing the variety of bird visitors arriving at the feeders, it can additionally give children the responsibility of daily cleaning and filling the feeders; feeding wild birds can encourage wild birds into your garden, which can give many people hours of delight and enjoyment. 

In summary, to make your garden more attractive to wild birds, try to offer:

Also, remember that birds enjoy mature gardens with well established trees and shrubs and good variety of herbaceous and other borders.  Garden plants can provide direct benefits for birds in the shape of fruit and seeds for food, but above all they provide habitats for the invertebrates on which so many birds especially the young, will feed.  Plantings can also be designed to provide safety and places where birds can forage among the leaf litter (don’t clear up all the leaves in autumn), as well as offering potential nesting sites and perches in bushes, hedges, climbers and trees.  

Providing a pond for wildlife:

A pond in a wildlife garden can act as an important source of water for wildlife and will attract creatures such as frogs and toads, in addition to offering a bathing and drinking place for birds.

By including a variety of different plant species and ensuring that the pond offers a choice of water depths, including boggy areas, the pond can provide a large variety of habitats for wildlife.

When designing a wildlife pond, try to keep the south side of the pond open to the sunlight and include floating plants to offer localised shade and shelter for aquatic wildlife species.  Also, try to position the pond away from deciduous trees which may choke it with leaves in the autumn, although a certain amount of tree or leaf debris can offer habitats for a wide range of plants and invertebrates; dead leaves can offer food for detritivores, which are organisms that eat the remains of dead plants and animals.

Ideally, the immediate surroundings of the pond should vary gradually, from water to damp margins to dry land.  Plant some shrubs and ground cover plants nearby where wildlife species can shelter and hibernate and create a rough rockery so that amphibians can over-winter safely under the stones.  A planted area of bog along one edge of the pond is also very beneficial to wildlife.

A variety of slopes and depths should ideally be included in the wildlife pond design.  Gentle slopes in at least part of the pond are helpful for emerging young amphibians, insects or even ducklings so that they can easily leave the water.  These ramps or gentle slopes will also be helpful and assist careless hedgehogs and other small mammals which accidentally enter the pond.  In addition, provide shallow areas in some parts of your wildlife pond, as well as deep places where the water will not freeze in winter, so that hibernating creatures can survive. 

Natural ponds fill with rainwater or spring water, but most garden ponds will initially be filled with tap water and this can cause problems as the water has invariably been treated with various additives.  Leave a recently filled pond for at least a week, to allow the water to settle and for its chlorine content to be lost, before planting it. 

In summer, if the water level falls to less than half its usual depth, the pond can be topped up using rainwater from a garden butt.  This should be done very gradually, which is the key to successful wildlife pond management; the water should be trickled in over a long period of time.

Plants are the basis of a good wildlife pond, providing oxygen, food, refuges, egg-laying sites and hatching sites for a wide variety of wildlife species.  Ideally select native plants species in preference to imported varieties and try to maintain a balance between the main groups of plants in your pond.  Ideally include:

Algae is an important food source and habitat for some creatures, but if the algal cover on your garden pond becomes excessive, it will lead to a lack of oxygen in the water.

Leave the plants to establish themselves for one year before animal life is introduced, as this may overwhelm very young plants.  In the meantime, many invertebrates, such as dragonflies and various aquatic insects and beetles will have discovered your pond.

In the winter, try to ensure the suitability of your pond for any amphibians that choose to hibernate in and around it.  Leave damp heaps of plant material undisturbed for frogs and newts that will hibernate on the land, where as toads and newts can often be found occupying a corner of a shed or a rockery, where they should be left undisturbed in winter.  Always take care with winter gardening, as there may be a toad under the pile of stones or simply in an unseen hole in the soil in the spot where you are about to dig.

When considering introducing animal life to your pond, remember to consider the possible impact that animal life will have on a pond.  For example, fish in a pond may eat invertebrates and tadpoles.  Also, Herons have been known to prey on fish in ponds and may also take amphibians, reptiles and other insects.  A wire mesh cover over the pond, which does not hinder other pond residents, may be required to deter Herons.  Pond tadpoles can be a source of food for many wild animals and may be eaten by water beetles and their larvae, greater water boatman, dragon fly nymphs, fish, newts and ducks.

However, the larger the pond, the more chance its inhabitants have of finding shelter and avoiding predators.

   

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References and further reading: